Brazilian accommodations are simple yet usually clean and reasonably safe, and nearly all come with cafe damanhd (breakfast) - though it may consist of noth­ing more than instant coffee and a dry roll. Private rooms with communal bathrooms are called quartos. Rooms with private bathrooms are apartamentos.

Where there are no hotels or pousadas (guesthouses) - as in parts of Amazonia and the northeast - a hammock and mos­quito net are essential. With these basics (inexpensively bought in almost any town) and friendly locals, you can get a good night's rest anywhere.

Camping

Camping is a viable alternative in many parts of the country for travelers on limited budgets or for those wanting to explore some of the national parks, as long as you're prepared to carry a tent and the other necessary gear. The Camping Clube do Brasil (www.campingdube.com.br in Portuguese) has 48 camping grounds as far apart as Forta­leza and Porto Alegre .

Hostels

Youth hostels are called albergues da juven­tude. The Federa4ao Brasileira dos Albergues da Juventude (FBAJ; www.hostel.org.br ) has over 50 hostels, including many in state capitals and popular travel destinations. Many hos­tels are excellent, and they're great places to meet young Brazilians. A dormitory bed costs between US$7.50 and US$16 per person. Non-HI members usually pay 50% extra, but you can buy an HI guest card for US$15 at many hostels and at youth hostel association offices in Brazil .

The FBAJ's website lists all FBAJ hostels, often with links to the hostels' own sites. Booklets listing the hostels are available free at hostels, hostel offices and some travel agents.

There are also a few dozen non-FBAJ hostels around the country, many of which are fine.

Hotels

Brazil has good, modern, luxury hotels; old, shabby, moldy hotels; and everything in between. A clean, comfortable, air-con room including private bathroom with no frills can cost as little as US$15 to US$25 a double.

A very cheap hotel can cost as little as US$5/7 for single/double quartos. For that kind of price, expect a bare, shabby room with nothing but a bed and maybe a fan.

Prices are often flexible. Many mid-range and top-end hotels will give you a discount o 40% f up to 40% from their posted prices just for asking `Tem desconto?' (`Is there a discount?'). The discount is sometimes avail­able only if you pay cash, or if you stay a few days; sometimes it's available to anyone who asks for it. Prices usually rise during high seasons. Hotels in business-oriented cities such as Curitiba and Brasilia readily give discounts on weekends.

Pousadas

Budget travelers often stay at pousadas where a room with shared bath can go for as little as US$7 per person. Their small scale can make them some of the most pleasant places to stay in Brazil . Not that they're all cheap; the most luxurious cost US$100 for a double room with breakfast.