Brazil is a vast, sprawling country, with much to see and do-from the jungles of the Amazon to the cosmopolitan beaches of Rio to the restored colonial buildings of Salvador and the hundreds of frolicking dolphins of Fernando de Noronha . This chapter helps you figure out where to begin: where and when to go; how to get there; what precautions to take; and best of all, how to save money on your trip.

The Regions in Brief

Brazil's 170 million citizens inhabit the fifth-largest country in the world, a nation about 10% larger than the continental United States. The Amazon dominates the northern third of the county-a vast tropical rainforest with the river at its heart. Despite rather illconceived plans to run roads through the jungle, transport throughout the Amazon basin is still mostly done by water. The country's central interior is dominated by the planalto, a high dry plateau covered in cerrado, a type of dry scrub forest reminiscent of California chaparral. The chief city in this region is the planned federal capital Brasilia. West of the planalto but south of the Amazon rainforest you find the Pantanal, a wetland the size of France that is one of best places to see wildlife in the whole of South America. Brazil's Northeast is a land apart. Running roughly from Sao Luis to Salvador, the coast is dominated by midsize cities and sugar cane, the culture strongly Afro-Brazilian, while on the very dry interior plateau those Nordestinos who haven't yet fled to the cities still eke out a bare living on the land. Brazil's two chief cities, Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo, stand within a few hundred miles of each other close to the country's south coast. Sao Paulo is by far the larger and more important of the two, but Rio, the former capital and cidade maravilhosa (marvelous city), is by far the more interesting. The small southern tip of the country is inhabited largely by descendants of European immigrants. It's the most densely settled and best-organized part of Brazil. It has small livable cities such as Curitiba, regularly cited by city planners worldwide as an example in urban living. The island of Santa Catarina, also known as Florianopolis, boasts over 40 beaches and is the favorite summer destination in the south.

RIO DE JANEIRO Few cities are as striking. The city folds itself into the narrow bits of land between tropical beaches and mountains that leap to 750m (2,500-ft.) heights (one of these is crowned by the city's landmark statue of Jesus Christ). The city offers much in the way of sightseeing, from nature to sunbathing to museums and historic neighborhoods. The culture, perhaps best expressed in music and nightlife, is just as appealing. Samba is alive and well, augmented by many vibrant newer forms of distinctly Brazilian music. The event of the year is Carnaval, the biggest parry of the world. And believe me when I say that Cariocas-as Rio residents are known-know how to throw a party.

SAO PAULO Some 25 million people live in and around Sao Paulo, the largest city not only in Brazil but in all of South America. Sao Paulo is Brazil's New York. It's the melting Pot that attracts the best and brightest to make their fortune. The city overflows with restaurants, including the best finc dining in Brazil. Sao Paulo has also emerged as the cultural capital of Brazil, particularly strong in new Brazilian theater. And it's the best place in Brazil to shop.

THE NORTHEAST Even in a country with such strong regional distinctions, Brazil's Northeast (Nordeste), roughly encompassing the area from Salvador to Recife and Natal, stands apart. Everything Nordeste is different: the food richer, the cities more historic, the beaches longer and whiter, the music more vibrant, the politics more Byzantineand more corrupt. This was the first part of Brazil to be settled, the area where sugar cane and slavery dominated economy and society for more than 3 centuries. The downturn in the sugar economy left the area a backwater, and only with the recent advent of tourism have Nordeste fortunes really begun to pick up. For visitors the Northeast offers a year-round tropical climate with long white sandy beaches, historic cities, and a vibrant Afro-Brazilian culture, which is reflected in the cuisine, the festivals and, especially, the music and dance. Olinda is a quiet colonial gem of a city, while Salvador's 16th-century colonial core has been transformed into a kind of permanent musical stage.

THE AMAZON The largest rainforest in the world is so vast it defies easy description: All of Western Europe would fit comfortably and to spare beneath its leafy canopy. Thanks in large part to media coverage of the many threats to this region, interest in cco-tourism and visits to the Amazon have skyrocketed. The main staging ground for trips to the Brazilian Amazon is the city of Manaus, located where the Rio Negro joins the Rio Solimoes to form the Amazon. Manaus itself is surprisingly modern. Modcratcly interesting in itself, its real interest is as the starting point for expeditions into the rainforest. Options include everything from day trips on the Amazon to multiday trips to virgin rainforest where one can catch sight of countless unique plants and animals. In contrast to Manaus, the city of Belem, located at the mouth of the Amazon, is an old and settled city, with numerous churches and an historic downtown, and the incredible Ver-o-Peso market, where the entire produce of the Amazon is bought and sold.

THE SOUTHWEST Brazil's southwest is a broad flat plain, dotted here and there with craggy highlands, and populated chiefly by ranchers, cowhands, and increasingly by large commercial farms. Within this vast and not especially intriguing region, the two highlights are the Pantanal and the Igua~u Falls. A wetland the size of France, the Pantanal has traditionally been overlooked in favor of the Amazon, but that's changing as people become increasingly aware of the incredible wildlife-viewing opportunities the area offers. More than 600 bird species, anacondas, jaguars, caiman, giant otters, and anteaters are just some of the animals found in the wetlands. As this area lacks the dense foliage of the Amazon, the animals are much easier to spot. The Igua~u Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are located on the border of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. These truly spectacular falls are made up of 275 falls that cascade from 72m (240 ft.) down a 2.5km (1'/-mile) wide precipice in a fabulous jungle setting.

THE SOUTH The southern part of Brazil, made up of the states of Parana, Santa Catarina, and Rio Grande do Sul, boasts a*_emperate climate and good soil, attributes that long attracted large numbers of European immigrants. It's a settled, well-organized region. Curitiba, often cited as the most livable city in Brazil, is an urban planner's dream. It offers a perfect public transportation system, clean streets, plenty of green space, and innovative social projects. The prime beach destination in the south is Florianopolis. This large island boasts over 40 beaches, clean waters, and excellent restaurants and nightlife.