High season in Brazil lasts from the week before Christmas until Carnaval (which falls sometime in Feb or early Mar, depending on the year). Flights and accommodations are more expen­ sive and more likely to be full during this period. Book well ahead of time for accommodations during New Year's and Carnaval. This is the most fun time to travel-towns and resorts are bustling as many Brazilians take their summer vacations, the weather's warm, and New Year's and Carnaval are fabulously entertaining. If you want to spend New Year's in Brazil , it's best to arrive after Christmas. The 25th is really a family affair, and most restaurants and shops will be closed.

Other busy times of year include Easter week and the month of July, when schools and universities take their winter break. This is probably the worst time of year to travel; prices go up significantly, and the weather can be iffy and downright chilly any­ where south of Sao Paulo . One year in Rio , I suffered through 4 straight weeks of rain, and temperatures as low as the 40s and 50s (5-10 Celsius) are not unheard of in the south. If you want to take advantage of the best deals and still have good weather, consider visiting Brazil in September or October. The spring weather means warm days in Sao Paulo , Igua~u, and Rio , and tropical heat everywhere else; in the Amazon and the Pantanal you'll be there just before the wet season starts. As an added bonus, in Rio you'll be able to attend some of the samba school rehearsals as they get ready for Carnaval. Another good period for a visit is after Carnaval (early to mid-Mar, depending on the dates) through May, when you can take advantage of low-season prices, particularly in hotels, while still enjoy­ing good weather.

WEATHER

As Brazil lies in the Southern Hemi­ sphere, its seasons are the exact oppo­ site of what Northern Hemisphere residents are used to: summer is December through March and win­ ter June through September. Within the country the climate varies consid­ erably from region to region. In most of Brazil the summers are very hot. Temperatures can rise to 110°F (43°C) with high humidity. The Northeast (from Salvador north) is warm year-round, often with a pleas­ ant breeze coming off the ocean. Tem­ peratures hover between the low 80s to mid-90s (upper 20s to mid-30s Celsius). The winter months (June­ July) are slightly wetter, but even then the amount of rain is limited-a quick shower that cools things down briefly before giving way to more sunshine. As befits a rainforest, the Amazon is also hot and humid year-round, with summertime temperatures hovering around the mid-90s (mid-30s Celsius) and wintertime temperatures coming in around 5 degrees cooler. The humidity is higher in the summer rainy season, building up over the course of the day to produce a heavy downfall most every afternoon. Even then, however, mornings and early afternoons are generally clear and sunny. The Pantanal is very hot in the summer, with temperatures climbing over the 100°F mark (low 40s Cel­ sius). Most of the rain falls December through March. The driest time of the year is May through October. In the winter things cool down considerably, though nighttime temperatures will seldom drop below 68°F (20°C). Rio has very hot and humid summers­ 100°F (38°C) and 98% humidity are not uncommon. Rio winters are quite mild, with nighttime temperatures dropping as low as 66°F (19°C), and daytime temperatures climbing to the pleasant and sunny mid-80s (30°C). Cariocas themselves find this lack of heat appalling, and will often throw on a coat or heavy sweater when the temperature drops below 70°F (21°C). In their defense I should note that most houses and apartments are completely without heat, and many restaurants and stores lack windows or doors, so it can feel quite cool. Sao Paulo has a similar climate to Rio 's, hot in the summer and mild in winter. As Sao Paulo sits atop a plateau at approximately 700m (2,300 ft.) of ele­vation it can sometimes get downright chilly, with daytime lows June through September sometimes reaching 54°F (12°C). South of Sao Paulo, things get even colder in the winter. Also, inland in the mountain resort of Petropolis and the historic towns of Onto Preto and Tiradentes, it often gets cold enough to see your breath (41 °F/5°C) in the fall and winter. The same is true for Igua~u.

HOLIDAYS

The following holidays are observed in Brazil: New Year's Day (Jan 1); Car­ naval (Feb 22-25, 2004, and Feb 6-9, 2005); Easter (Apr 11, 2004, and Mar 27, 2005); Tiradentes Day (Apr 21); Labor Day (May 1); Corpus Christi (June 10, 2004, and May 26, 2005); Independence Day (Sept 7); Our Lady of Apparition (Oct 12); All Souls Day (Nov 2); Proclamation of the Republic (Nov 15); and Christmas Day (Dec 25). On these days banks, schools, and government institutions will be closed, and some stores may be closed as well. Sometimes the holiday will be taken on the Monday closest to the actual date.

Brazil 's biggest holidays are New Year's and Carnaval (see "Everything You Need to Know about Carnaval" and "Reveillon: New Year's Eve in Rio ," both in chapter 4). Easter is also a big celebration in a number of towns around the country, particularly in the historic towns of Minas Gerais and Novo Jerusalem outside Recife . Reser­ vations are recommended for those planning to attend these events.

BRAZIL CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Most tourist offices in Brazil are reluctant to put out an annual events listing. Funding is often limited for cultural events, and many festivals live from hand to mouth, sometimes taking place and sometimes not. Therefore your best bet is to check with the local tourist office when you arrive for any specific events taking place in the region. January

New Year's Celebration. In Rio de Janeiro close to 2 million people gather for one of the most spectac­ ular New Year's celebrations in the world. Starting on the evening of December 31 and continuing well into the morning of January 1, the main event takes place on Copaca­ bana beach with live music and fireworks, as well as Candomble religious ceremonies. For details contact Riotur ((,C(021/2217-7575; ) www.riotur.com.br ) or Alo Rio ((t 021/2542-8080). January 1.

Three Kings Festival in Salvador . Salvador celebrates the Three Kings Festival with a procession and events around the Pra~a da Se in the old town. Contact Bahiatursa (,C~ 071/ 321-2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov . br) for details. January 6.

Washing of the Steps of Bon­ fim Church. This is one of the most important religious cere­ monies in Salvador when hundreds of women in traditional Bahian dress form a procession and carry perfumed water to wash the church steps, accompanied by 800,000 onlookers and revelers. Contact Bahiatursa (t 071/321­2463; 071/321­2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br ) for details. Third Thursday of January.

Saint Sebastian Day. The patron saint of Rio de Janeiro is honored in this regional holiday. The highlight is a procession to the city's mod­ ern cathedral. For details contact Riotur (CC 021/2217-7575; www. riodejaneiroturismo.com.br/pt) or Alo Rio ((CJ 021/2542-8080). Jan­ uary 20.

February

Celebration of Yemanja, the God­ dess of the Sea. Devotees through­ out Brazil offer flowers, perfumes, and jewelry to the sea. Celebrations take place on the beach with music and food. The largest celebration takes place in Salvador on Praia Ver­ melha. Contact Bahiatursa (V 071/ 321-2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov . br) for details. February 2.

Carnaval. This event can take place anywhere from early February to mid-March. The largest celebra­ tions take place in Rio and Sal­ vador . For details contact Riotur (,C~C 021/2217-7575; www.rio.rj. gov.br/riotur) or Alo Rio at Z 021/ 2542-8080. In Salvador contact Bahiatursa ((CJ 071/321-2463; www. bahiatursa.ba.gov.br ) for details. Book ahead if you plan on attend­ing this event. See "Holidays," above, for upcoming dates. Begins the weekend before Ash Wednesday and ends on the morning of Ash Wednesday.

March

Easter Weekend (Semana Santa). This important Catholic holiday is celebrated with processions and concerts. Ouro Preto's historic town, with its 13 baroque churches, is a popular destination during Easter. Contact Ouro Preto Tourist Information (It 31/3559-3201) for details. (Sometimes celebrated in Apr.)

Passion Play, Nova Jerusalem . South America's largest passion play takes place in Nova Jerusalem, just outside of Recife in Brazil's North­east. Daily performances. For more information contact Recife Tourist Information (~C 081/3462-4960 or 081/3341-6090) for details. Ten days preceding Easter.

Grand Prix, Sao Paulo . Brazilians are car-racing fanatics; watching a big race in the company of Brazilian fans is an event in itself. The Grand Prix at Interlagos (a suburb of Sao Paulo ) is the prime event in the country. Contact www.gpbrasil.org for more information, or call the tourist office in Sao Paulo (CCJ O11/ 231-2922 or 011/251-0970). Last weekend in March or April, contact for dates.

April

Week of the Inconfidencia. Tiradentes Day on April 21 is a national holiday, but only Ouro Preto has made it into a large event with celebrations, plays, and cul­ tural events taking place. Contact Onto Preto Tourist Information (V 031/3559-3544) for details. Week of April 16 to April 21.

June

Festas Juninas. Folklore event in honor of saints Anthony, John, and Peter. Celebrated throughout Brazil , this harvest festival offers country music, bonfires, hot-air balloons, and fun fairs. In Rio con­tact Riotur at Ct~ 021/2217-7575 ( www.rio.rj.gov.br/riotur) or Alo Rio ((t 021/2542-8080). June 13 to June 14. Bauernfest, Petropolis . Petropolis celebrates the German heritage of its many settlers with a week of Ger­ man food, folklore, and music. Con­ tact Petrotur ((t 0800/241-516 or 024/2243-9300; www.petrotur.gov . rj.br ) for details. Last weekend of June and first week of July.

July

Sailing Festival, Ilhabela. Yachties don't want to miss Brazil's largest sailing event that takes place on Ilhabela, off of Sao Paulo . For details call CCJ 012/472-2300 in Ilhabela, or O11/3151-3616 ( www. ilhabela.com.br ) in Sao Paulo . Third week of July.

September

Independence Day. This is Brazil 's national holiday. Most cities hold parades and flag ceremonies. In Rio de Janeiro the event is quite impres­ sive and takes place around Avenida Rio Branco, and is worth seeing if you happen to be in town. Septem­ ber 7.

Film Festival Rio BR, Rio de Janeiro . Rio 's film festival showcases Brazilian and international films. Subtitles are in Portuguese, but there is usually a good selection of international movies. In Rio con­ tact Riotur at C~C 021/2217-7575 ( www.rio.rj.gov.br/riotur) or Alo Rio at (t 021/2542-8080. Late September to the first week of October.

October

Free Jazz Festival, Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo . A 3-day jazz festival with national and international acts. In Rio contact Riotur (,C 021/2217­ 7575; www.rio.rj.gov.br/riotur) or Alo Rio (,C 021/2542-8080). In Sao Paulo contact the CIT (Cen­ tral de Informa~oes Turisticas) at CJC 011/3231-2922 or 011/251­ 0970. Mid- to late October.

Cirio of Narare, Belem . Tens of thousands of the faithful parade an icon of the Virgin of Narare through the streets and harbor of Belem . Second Sunday of October (upcoming dates are Oct 10, 2004 and Oct 9, 2005 ). Contact Belem­tur (,1) 091/242-0900).

International Film Festival, Sao Paulo . The festival presents the best films of Brazil , Latin America , and the world. Most venues concentrate around the Avenida Paulista. Con­ tact ~C Oll/3141-2548, or check www.mostra.org . Last 2 weeks of October.

Sao Paulo Bienai. Art, theater, music, and architecture, the biggest arts event in Latin America takes place every even year in Ibirapuera Park . For schedules and information contact the Funda~ao Bienal de Sao Paulo (~C 011/5574-5922; www. bienalsaopaulo.org.br ).

November

Aleijadinho Week, Ouro Preto. Special exhibits and presentations. about the beloved sculptor. Contact Onto Preto Tourist Information at 6 031/3559-3201 for details. November 14 to 21.

December

Santa Barbara , Salvador . This festival is celebrated with proces­ sions, music, and dance. Santa Barbara is the Candomble equiva­ lent of Iansa, the goddess of wind. Contact Bahiatursa (CCJ 071/321­ 2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br ) for details. December 4.

Christmas Eve. Brazilians go to midnight Mass to celebrate Christ­ mas. Mass is usually followed by a late-night supper with family. December 24.

Reveillon (New Year's Eve), Rio de Janeiro . See "A Reveillon: New Year's," above. December 31.