- Suggested Itineraries
- The Top Attractions
- Museums & Cultural Centers
- Architectural Highlights
- Beaches, Parks & Plazas
- Rio After Dark
- Everything You Need to know About Carnaval
- Shopping in Rio

Ah, Carnaval. The name evokes explosive images of colorful costumes, lavish floats, swarming masses, and last-minute debauchery before the sober Lenten season begins. Though it may look like sheer entertainment, Carnaval means hard work and dedication for many Cariocas; to some, it's a full-time job.

WHAT'S IT ALL ABOUT? The religious aspect of the celebration faded some time ago, but Carnaval's date is still determined by the ecclesiastical cal­ endar, officially occupying only the 4 days immediately preceding Ash Wednes­day. With typical ingenuity and panache, however, Cariocas have managed to stretch the party into an event lasting several months, culminating in the all­night feast of color and sound that is the Samba School Parade, where tens of thousands of costumed dancers, thousands of percussionists, and hundreds of gorgeous performers atop dozens of floats all move in choreographed harmony to the nonstop rhythm of samba.

If you're not able to attend Carnaval itself, rehearsals-which usually start in mid-September or early October-are an absolute must, and the closest you'll get to the real thing. Even if you are in town for Carnaval, attending a rehearsal will give you a great appreciation of the logistics involved in putting together the parade, plus you'll learn all the words and dance moves. (See "Watching a Rehearsal," below.)

In the two weeks leading up to the big event, you'll begin to see the blocos. These are community groups-usually associated with a particular neighbor­ hood or sometimes with a bar-who go around the neighborhood, playing music and singing and dancing through the streets. Their instruments and cos­ tumes easily identify the official bloco members, but everyone is welcome and encouraged to follow along and add to the merriment. A number of blocos are so well known that they draw throngs of followers in the tens of thousands. The Banda de Carmen Miranda in Ipanema with its extravagant drag queens is a hoot. (See "Hanging with the Blocos," below, for a list of popular blocos.)

Carnaval finally kicks off on the Friday before Ash Wednesday with an explo­sion of lavish balls (bazles). Originally the bailes were reserved for the elite, while the masses partied it up with vulgar splendor in the streets. Today, they're still a pricey affair and the Copacabana Palace Ball remains the society event in Rio . The blocos also kick into high gear once Carnaval arrives with several groups parading every day from Saturday through Tuesday.

WATCHING THE SAMBA PARADE

Then, there is the piece de resistance: the Samba School Parade, the event that the samba schools work, plan, and sweat over for an entire year. Starting Sunday and continuing through Monday night, the 14 top-ranked samba schools (really community groups whose sole focus is the parade) compete for the honor of putting on the best show. The competition takes place in the Sambodromo, a 1.5km (]-mile) long concrete parade ground built in the center of Rio for this once-a-year event. Each night over 60,000 spectators watch the contest live, while millions more tune in on TV to catch this feast for the senses.

Even before the parade starts, the streets surrounding the Sambodromo are closed to car traffic, while the grounds around this stadium are transformed into Carnaval Central. A main stage hosts a variety of acts and performances, and hundreds of vendors set up shop with food and drinks. This terreirao do samba (samba land), as Riotur calls it, is open the weekend prior to Carnaval, from Friday through Tuesday during Carnaval, and then again for the Saturday after­wards for the Parade of Champions. Contact Riotur (Tel: 021/2217-7575) for more derailed program information.

HOW & WHERE TO GET TICKETS For information on tickets contact the Liga das Escolas de Samba (Tel: 021/2253-7676; svww.liesa.com.br ). You can also purchase through a designated travel agency such as Blumar (Tel: 021/ 2511-3636). Tickets for the best bleachers sections cost R$250 (US$83); chairs start at R$580 (US$191) in sections 9 and 11. As a last resort, try your hotel, but expect to pay a premium for this service. If you have tickets you can head directly to the Sambodromo. In case you still need tickets you can try the scalpers-but be careful. Each ticket consists of a magnetic plastic card and an attached paper slip-you need both to enter. The parade grounds are divided into sections (see map): even-numbered sections can be accessed from the Cen­tral Station side (Metro: Central); odd-numbered sections can be accessed from the Pra~a XI side (Metro: Pra~a XI). Don't worry, there are lots of police and staff around to point you in the right direction. Unless you snag some fancy front row seats or box seats, you will be sitting on concrete bleachers. There are pil­lows for sale, or you can bring your own.

The best sections are 5, 7, 9, and 11. These place you more or less in the middle of the parade avenue, allowing you to see up and down as the schools come through. Sections 9 and 11 are exclusively reserved for tourists, and tickets are sold through agencies. The advantage is your spot on the concrete bleacher bears a number so you don't have to fight to squeeze in. Avoid sitting at the start or Ii r end of the Avenida (sections 1, 3, 4, 6, and 13).

The parade starts at 9pm , but unless you want to stake out a particular spot you may as well take your time arriving, because the event will continue non­ stop until about 6am . We recommend leaving a bit early as well to avoid the big crunch at the end when the entire crowd tries to squeeze through a narrow set of revolving gates. Food and drinks are available inside the Sambodromo. Thhough prices aren't outrageous, it's a serious pain elbowing your way back and forth from your seat: Grab something at one of the many inexpensive kiosks, outside the Sambodromo before you head in.

A FEW HELPFUL HINTS

Whether you are attending a rehearsal, following a bloco, or watching the parade, here are a few helpful hints to ensure you have a good time.

• Dress casually and comfortably. The weather is usually hot and humid so a tank top or bikini top and shorts are fine. Comfortable shoes are a must as you will be on your feet for hours, dancing and jumping to the music.

• Pack light. A purse or any extra accessories are not recommended, especially at the rehearsals and the blocos as you will be dancing and moving around. When watching the parade you can bring a small bag or knapsack and leave it at your feet, but the lighter you travel the better. Make sure you bring enough cash for the evening, some form of ID (driver's license or some other picture ID that is not your passport), and maybe a small camera you can tuck into your pocket. Leave jewelry and other valuables at home.

• The events themselves are very safe, but be aware of pickpockets in large crowds. At the end of the event, take a taxi or walk with the crowds, avoiding any deserted streets or unfamiliar neighborhoods.

• Keep in mind that prices will be slightly higher, cabs may add a premium, and drinks and food at the parade and some other venues may be higher than what you are used to in Brazil .

• Plan to have enough cash for the entire Carnaval period. All financial institutions close for the duration, and it's not unusual for bank machines to run out of money.

PARTICIPATING IN THE PARADE

If you think watching the parade from up close sounds pretty amazing, imagine being in it. Every year, the samba schools open up positions for outsiders to participate in the parade. Putting on this extravaganza is an expensive proposi­ tion, and by selling the costumes and the right to parade, the school is able to recuperate some of their costs. But outside paraders are also needed for artistic and competitive reasons. To score high points the school needs to have enough people to fill the Avenida and make the parade look full and colorful. A low turnout can make the school lose critical points.

To parade (desfilar in Portuguese) you need to commit to a school and buy a costume (about R$150-R$600/US$50-US$198), which you can often do online. Some sites are in English as well as Portuguese; if not, look under fantasia (cos­ tume). Depending on the school, they may courier the costume or arrange for a pickup downtown just before the parade, or you may have to make the trek out to wherever they are.

For an added charge, a number of agencies in Rio will organize it all for you, getting you in with a school and arranging the costume. Blumar (Tel: 021/2511­ 3636) can organize the whole event for you for about R$900 (US$300). For other organizations, contact Alo Rio at (Tel: 021/2542-8080).

As a participant in the parade you do not automatically get a ticket to watch the rest of the event. If you want to see the other schools you need to purchase a separate ticket. If your school finishes in the top five there will be a repeat per­ formance in the Parade of Champions, held on the Saturday after Carnaval. If you are not able to parade again, consider donating your costume to a fellow traveler or keen Brazilian.

WATCHING A REHEARSAL

Every Saturday from September (or even as early as Aug) until Carnaval, each samba school holds a general samba rehearsal (ensaio) at its home base. The band and key people come out and practice their theme song over and over to perfec­tion. It may sound a tad repetitious, but you'd be amazed how a good band play­ ing the same song over and over can generate a really great parry. People dance for hours, taking a break now and then for snacks and beer. The income generated goes towards the group's floats and costumes. By the end of the night (and these rehearsals go until the wee hours) everyone knows the words to the song and has-hopefully-turned into an ardent fan who will cheer this particular school on at the parade. (General rehearsals usually don't involve costumes or practicing dance routines. There are also dress rehearsals, but these are much less frequent. Inquire with the school if you're interested in attending one of these.)

Most of the samba schools are based in the poorer and quite distant suburbs, but both Mangueira and Salgueiro are located no more than an R$30 (US$10) cab ride from Copacabana. Nor should you worry overly much about safety. Rehearsals take place in the warehouse or open-air space where the school builds its floats and sews its costumes. There is always security, and the rehearsals are very well attended. Plan to arrive anytime after l lpm. When you are ready to leave there'll be lots of taxis around. Just don't go wandering off into the neigh­borhood, unless you're familiar with the area. Many hotels will organize tours to the samba school rehearsals, but unless you prefer to go with a group it's not really necessary and certainly a lot cheaper to go on your own. To find out more about specific schools, rehearsals, or participating in the parade, contact the Liga das Escolas de Samba (Tel: 021/2253-7676; www.liesa.com.br ). If you can't find anyone there who speaks English, contact Alo Rio for assistance (Tel: 021/ 2542-8080). Or you can try contacting one of the samba schools directly; below you'll find a partial list:

•  Beija-flor (a crowd favorite and winner of 2003), Rua Pracinha Walace

Paes Leme 1025, Nilopolis (Tel: 021/2791-2866).

•  Imperatriz (the winner in 1999, 2000, and 2001), Rua Prof. Lace 235,

Ramos (Z 021/2270-8037).

•  Imperio, Av. M. Edgard Romero 114, Madureira (Tel: 021/3359-4944;

Www.imperioserrano.art. br ).

•  Mangueira ( Rio 's most favorite samba school and close to downtown),

Rua Visconde de Niterbi 1072, Mangueira (Tel: 021/3872-6786;

www.mangueira.com.br ).

•  Portela, Rua Clara Nunes 81, Madureira (Tel: 021/2489-6440; www.

gresportela.com ).

•  Salgueiro (close to downtown, very popular), Rua Silva Telles 104,

Andarai (Tel: 021/2238-5564; www.salgueiro.com.br ).

•  Unidos da Tijuca, Rua Sao Miguel, 430, Tijuca (Tel: 021/2516-4053)

« wv.unidosdatijuca.com.br ).

HANGING WITH THE BLOCOS

To experience the real street Carnaval, don't miss the parading blocos. The key i~) [he popularity of the blocos is the informality; everyone is welcome, and you d„n't need a costume, just comfortable clothes and shoes. (Bear in mind, however, that the informality extends to scheduling. If your group doesn't start on I ime, grab a beer and chill-they'll show eventually.) Different blocos do have , certain styles or attract specific groups, so pick one that suits you and have fun. Riotur publishes an excellent brochure called Bandas, Blocos and Ensaios, avail­ ihle through Alo Rio (Tel: 021/2542-8080). Also available from Riotur, Av. I'rincesa Isabel 183, Copacabana (Tel: 021/2217-7563), is the Rio Incomparavel I,rochure, which has a full listing of events. While traditio