- Suggested Itineraries
- The Top Attractions
- Museums & Cultural Centers
- Architectural Highlights
- Beaches, Parks & Plazas
- Rio After Dark
- Everything You Need to know About Carnaval
- Shopping in Rio

It's an open question whether Cariocas possess some hidden nightlife gene or whether they've trained themselves for decadence through years and years of prac­tice. Whatever the case, Rio has a lot to keep you busy at night. It starts early and continues very late. Cariocas themselves don't make a big deal about a night on the town: They're happy either heading out for beers or dancing to forro music or eating shrimp in some hole-in-the-wall botequim. However, if you as a visitor want to go for the quintessential Rio experience, you have to learn to pace your­self. Whether you spend the day seeking out sights or on the beach, head back to your hotel in the afternoon for a wee nap. Trust me, this will be the key to mak­ing it through the night. Once you're up again, head out in the cool early evening for a coconut juice on the beach. Sip it while watching the sunset (in summer around 8pm ), then around 9pm stroll over to a patio for a predinner drink. Jobi in I.eblon is a great spot. On weekends maybe walk along the pathway by the Lag oa and find a table at one of the kiosks. Plan to have dinner around 10pm , to be re ady for your evening of dancing around midnight . (Most places don't even open until 11pm .) Your options at this point depend on the day and the time of year. If you're in Rio between September and Carnaval, attending one of the samba school rehearsals on Saturday night is a must. Otherwise, on a Thursday night see who's playing at the Ballroom, or at some of the hip new samba spots in Lapa like the Rio Scenarium or the Centro Cultural Carioca. On a Friday night check out the dancers at one of Rio 's traditional dance halls downtown, the El lite or Asa Branca. Of course, there are a number of discos and bars to choose from, and then there are always the botequins, Rio 's neighborhood bars. Wher­ever you wind up, after 3 or 4 hours dancing you may find yourself getting peck­ ish. For a late-night or early morning snack, stop in at the Pizzeria Guanabara or Jobi, both in Leblon and open until at least 5am on weekends. By the time they throw you out, it'll just be time to wander down to the beach and watch the sunrise , ready for a new morning-and another night-in Rio .

To find out more about listings for arts and entertainment, check the Friday editions of the 0 Globo or Jornal do Brasil newspapers. Available at all newsstands (buy early in the day, as they sell out quickly), both publish a detailed , weekly calendar of events, including nightlife, performing arts, concerts, and other events in the city. The Rio tourism agency Riotur also publishes a detailed booklet of events in English and Portuguese called Rio Incompardvel, available at its main information center at Av. Princesa Isabel 183 in Copacabana, or call Alo Rio at Tel: 021/2542-8080 for information on events around town; they keep an updated list and have English-speaking staff to answer any questions.

THE PERFORMING ARTS

The performing-arts season in Brazil runs from early April until early Decem­ ber. April is a particularly good time-the equivalent of the North American September-as theaters and companies unveil their programs and kick off with their season premieres.

Centro Cultural da Light Built in 1919, the cultural center originally served as the headquarters for the electric company and the garage for the city's streetcars. Renovated and converted to a cultural center, the Light has a few quasi-interesting permanent displays on the history of electrification, as well as a gallery and display space used to mount temporary exhibits on other (more interesting) topics. There's also a small concert area that specializes in presentations of popular Brazilian music (MPB). Very popular are the acoustic Tuesday presentations, a lunchtime concert series, starting at 12:30pm -doors open at 1130am. For these and other concert schedules see the website or the local newspapers event section.

Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil Housed in a gorgeous neoclassical building (former home of the Banco do Brasil), this extremely well-patronized cultural center gets about 1.8 million visitors a year. Some come for a coffee or snack in the lovely tea salon, others use the excellent library facilities, and many come for the cultural programming. Two theaters in the center host regular recitals, concerts, and dance performances as well as Portuguese-language theater. There are also regular photography and art exhibits in the center's small exhibi­ tion rooms. Check the newspapers or the website for more information.

Teatro Municipal Brazil 's prime venue for the performing arts, the elegant Parisian-style Teatro Municipal stages everything from opera to ballet to sym­ phony concerts. The theater's ballet corps and symphony orchestra perform reg­ularly throughout the year, and the theater also hosts many visiting companies such as the BBC Symphony Orchestra, the Berlin Philharmonic, the Kirov Bal­let, and the Brazilian Symphony Orchestra. Besides the formal programming, the theater also offers an inexpensive noon-hour opera series (opera do meio-dia) and concerts in the foyer. Check the newspapers for updated programming. Pra4a Marechal Floriano s/n, Centro. Tel: 021/2299-1717. www.theatromunicipal.rj.gov.br . Ticket prices range from R$15-R$40 (US$5-US$13) on most performances. Metro: Cinelandia.

Teatro Rival Located in downtown Rio , the Teatro Rival is a small theater that does an outstanding job booking local and popular national acts, mostly of MPB. Ticket prices are quite reasonable so give it a shot. You may be looking at the next Marisa Monte or one of Brazil 's many talented performers who haven't made it big internationally. Rua Alvaro Alvim 33, Centro. Tel: 021/2240-4469. Ticket prices R$10-R$40 (US$3.30-US$13). Metro: Cinelandia.

MUSIC & DANCE CLUBS

Throughout the summer, the city of Rio organizes concerts, outdoor movies on the beach, and other events in Copacabana. Check with Alo Rio at CC,~ 021/2542­ 8080 and make sure to pick up the event listing Rio Incomparavel from Riotur for a complete overview. Check out the Rio Hiking website ( wwwriohiking.com.br ) for excellent tips where to catch live music or just grab a drink and meet people. (Click “About us" and then " Rio hints.") Rio Hiking's owner Denise Werneck is as passionate about Rio 's nightlife as she is about exploring her city's exuberant nature trails. On her site she frequently lists the best of Rio for that week, saving the trouble of working through the Portuguese newspaper listings. If you don't like going out by yourself, Denise also conducts a nightlife tour, taking to some of the hippest places around (R$105/US$35; Tel: 021/2552­-9204 ), often connecting you with other travelers.

In most clubs and discos you can expect to pay a cover charge. Women usually pay less than men; you'll see the two prices listed at the door. Often there is also a drink minimum, ranging anywhere from R$5 to R$60 (US$1.G5-US$20). In most venues you are handed a card upon entry that is to be used to record all purchase . The bill is then settled when you leave. A 10% service charge will be included, and a tip on top of that is not required. Hang on to your card for dear life. If you lose it you'll be charged an astronomical fee.

Many clubs have a restricted VIP area overlooking the dance floor, usually with comfortable couches or tables. The definition of VIP varies from club to club: Sometimes it's for members only, sometimes you can get in if you call and reserve ahead of time, and sometimes all that's required is paying a higher drink minimum. The advantage of being in the VIP area is you get a guaranteed seat in an area off limits to most of the rest of the crowd, allowing you to leave your drinks, jackets, or purses at your table while you're dancing.

TRADITIONAL BRAZILIAN MUSIC

Asa Branca Located in a beautiful old mansion in the funky and only slightly shady neighborhood of Lapa, Asa Branca is one of the traditional Brazilian music venues , playing pagode, samba, choro (an offshoot of samba), and the immensely ,popular forro. In fact, the upbeat rhythms and catchy accordion tunes of forro have taken such a strong hold in Rio that even a traditional samba citadel like the Asa Branca now dedicates a good half of the week (Wed-Sat) to forro. Dancing goes until the early hours. For those who don't like burning the midnight oil, there is a Saturday afternoon feijdo (beans) and samba event. From 2 to 9pm Adelson Alves, one of the veterans of the Carioca music scene, serves up copious mounts of samba and all the feijdo you can handle. Open daily after lOpm and ~,iturday 2 to 9pm. Av. Mem de Sa 17, Lapa. Tel: 021/2232-5704. Cover R$6-R$12 (US$2­- U S$4). Bus: 409 or 410.

Elite One popular gafieira, or traditional dance hall, is the Elite, tucked in be hind an arcade of Romanesque arches on the second floor of a little pink and plaster gem of a colonial building in Centro. Even if you can't dance, it's worth having a drink and watching in awe and admiration as some of the older folks strut their stuff Often these couples will dress the part: men in crisp linen suits and wing-tip dance shoes and women in rustling silk dresses with ballooning '50s-style skirts. Only open Friday (after 7pm ), Saturday (after 10pm ), and Sunday (after 6pm ). Rua Frei Caneca 4, Centro. Tel: 021/2232-3217. Drink minimum R$6 (US$2). Metro: Central.

Estudantina Only open on Fridays and Saturdays, the gafieira Estudantina is another mainstay on the Carioca ballroom scene. Many students of the dance school come and show off, but newcomers and novices are made to feel equally welcome. A 10-piece band plays every weekend. Doors open at l lpm. Arrive early to grab a table. Prai;a Tiradentes 79, Centro. Tel: 021/2507-8067. Cover R$6-R$15 (US$2-US$5). Metro: Carioca.

Plataforma Every city has at least one. Some are fun in a tacky kind of way. This one should be labeled with a little radioactive sticker reading AVOID. What's offered is supposedly a song-and-dance showcase of Brazilian culture, but the reality is a mediocre supper served up with a glitzy Vegas­style show. The whole slick and packaged product has all the spontaneity and charm of a McDonald's Big Mac combo-and about as much connection to Brazilian culture. Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon. it 021/2274-4022. Admission price depends on whom you book through. Minimum price R$100 (US$33). Bus: 415.

Samba School Rehearsals If you are in Rio in the period from September up to Carnaval, you can attend a samba school rehearsal to get a feel for the event and the rhythms. Although located in the poorer neighborhoods away from the Zona Sul, a number of the quadras (where the rehearsals are held) are very accessible and just a short taxi ride away. Rua Visconde de Niteroi, 1072, Mangueira. Tel: 021/3872-6786. www.mangueira.com.br .

LIVE MUSIC

Aside from these listings, many small chopperias and botequins (see "Bars & Pubs," below, for longer descriptions of these two institutions) will often have a singer or small combo playing. Usually there's a small cover charge (couvert in Portuguese) for this entertainment. By sitting down and listening you're agreeing to foot the bill. The fee is automatically added to your tab. If you want to know what the couvert is before deciding to stay, simply ask the waiter. The key phrase is "Quanto e o couvert?" (Kwan-toe eh oh koo-ver?), or "How much is the cover?"

ATL Hall Latin America 's largest dedicated concert venue, the modern ATL Hall is located in the far-off corners of Barra da Tijuca in the Shopping Via Par­que. Most international stars and many of Brazil 's big stars such as Marisa Monte, Gilberto Gil, and Ney Matogrosso favor this 10,000-seat auditorium. At evening out will undoubtedly be pricey: Public transit is almost nonexistent, making taxis your best bet for getting out there. Expect to pay at least R$40 (US$13) one-way from the Zona Sul neighborhoods of Ipanema or Leblon, or negotiate a return fare with the driver. Av. Ayrton Senna 3000, Barra da Tijuca. (Tel: 021/2421-1331). Cover varies, but these are the big-ticket shows with some acts charging up to R$1 00 (US$33).

Canetao It's old and tattered, and the sightlines aren't terrific, but it's also got tradition. Everyone who's anyone in Brazilian music has played this aging 3,000­person auditorium, from Djavan to Milton Nascimento to Gal Costa. For his recent acoustic tour, superstar Caetano Veloso chose this venue over some of the more modern and fancy halls. The best section in the house are the tables in the balcao nobre. These give you great views of the stage and a chance to have a drink or a snack. The box office and theater are just across the street from thr Rio Sul shopping center. Av. Venceslau Bras 215, Botafogo. Tel: 021/2543-1241. Cover varies o, each event, starting around R$1 5 (US$5) and going up to R$60 (US$20) for the larger events. 474 to Rio Sul.

Carioca da Gema Though the Carioca da Gema is a fine little restau­rant, music is really the chief thing on order. All the dishes on the menu are named after famous samba songs, while up on stage there's a nightly offering of samba, served live. The combination has turned this little bistro into one of the 'iicst commodities in the downtown Rio nightlife scene (see "Nightlife Zones: 'Pa," below). On Friday and Saturday nights the place is packed with people, crowding in to enjoy the music. The show normally kicks off about 8pm, but , , .i(c is very limited so come early, get a spot close to the stage, and grab a bite ., It while waiting for things to heat up. Cover varies but is rarely more than R$10 (US$3.30). Rua Mem de Sa 79, Lapa. Tel: 021/2221-0043. Cover R$5-R$10 (US$1.65­ !~53.30) and drink minimum R$6 (US$2). Metro: Cinelandia.

Centro Cultural Carioca A relative newcomer on the music scene, the venue is classical; a restored historic building from the 1920s just off the Praca I Triadentes, it used to be the home of Dancing Eldorado in the 1930s. Housed on the second floor, the Centro Cultural hosts live bands, providing a fabulous venue for local musicians and big names who specialize in samba, MPB, choro, and gafieira. The room is cozy and intimate and guests sit at small tables to watch the shows. No shows on Sundays usually. Rua do Teatro, Centro Tel: 021 /2242-9642. www.centroculturalcarioca.com. Cover varies, usually between R$10 and R$15 (US$3.30-US$5). Metro: Cinelandia.

Tips Nightlife Zones: Lapa

Bars and clubs have their moments, so over time do neighborhoods. Lapa is definitely on the up again. In the roaring '20s Lapa's vibrant nightlife, with its many bars and nightclubs, earned it the nickname " Montmartre of the Tropics." It fell on hard times in the 'S0s and '60s, but in the last year or two Lapa has undergone a major revival as even Cariocas from trendy Ipanema and Leblon come hereto party. City and state governments have sat up and taken notice, investing money ren­ ovating some of the neighborhood's gorgeous heritage buildings, encouraging the development of restaurants and bars, and pumping R$5 (US$1.65) million into the revitalization of the Rua do Lavradio.

Things hop almost every night of the week, but the best days are Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. The most popular hangouts are on the Rua Mem de SS, around the lovely Largo da Lapa, and on the Rua do Lavradio on the far side of the Arcos da Lapa. Check out Armazem 161, Rua Lavradio 161 ((t 021/2509-6879) or Bar do Ernesto, Largo da Lapa (aka Rua da Lapa) 41 ((t 021/2508-5780). Both are antique stores turned music venues, making for the loveliest of bars. Other excellent live music venues are the Rio Scenarium and Carioca da Gema (see detailed reviews in this chapter).

Rio Scenarium If there was an award for most beautiful bar, Rio Scenarium would certainly deserve it. Located in a renovated warehouse on the edge of Lapa, Rio Scenarium is an antique store-turned-bar. All the items you see are part of the inventory and many of its props have been used on movie sets. Head up to the second floor and you'll even find the full contents of an old­ fashioned pharmacy, furniture, carriages, and many more items. This lovely building is the perfect setting for traditional Brazilian samba and choro. The acoustics are excellent and the tables centered around the stage and dance floor give everybody a great view. The caipirinhas are the drink of choice and the snack menu offers better-than-average munchies. Rua do Lavradio, Centro Tel: 021/ 2233-3239. Cover R$12-R$20 (US$4-US$6.60). Metro: Carioca.

DANCE CLUBS

Ballroom A restaurant by day, this mild-mannered location with the oh-so-­ generic name transforms itself into a packed and hopping dance club after 10pm , complete with lots of live music. Thursdays are forro nights, Brazil 's ver­ sion of upbeat country music. Fridays are reserved for Flashback Tunes, familiar hits from the '70s, '80s, and '90s, usually performed by the house band. Other programming varies. Rua Humaita 110, Botafogo. Tel: 021/2537-7600. Cover varies with event but usually around R$10-R$15 (US$3.30-US$5). Bus: 178. Metr&: Botafogo.

Baronneti One of the most happening dance clubs in Rio , Baronneti attracts a well-to-do and attractive crowd in their 20s to 40s. Part of their secret is the minimum drink requirement; at a stiff R$60 (US$20) minimum for guys on Saturdays, you don't get to rub elbows with the working class. What you do get is a fine-looking classy upscale club, fabulous dance music (no techno, electronic anything here) to dance the night away, plenty of couches and chill-out space, and a restaurant upstairs if you want to grab some food and have a more private conversation. Rua Barao da Torre 354, Ipanema , Tel: 021/2522-1460. Drink minimum women R$20-R$25 (US$6.60-US$8.25), men R$30-R$60 (US$10-US$20).

Bunker 94 Not everyone swoons to bossa nova or the upbeat sounds of samba and forro. At Bunker 94, Rio 's young and pierced move to the pounding sounds of techno, hip-hop, trance, and house as spun by three different DJs on three dif­ ferent dance floors. This is a gay-friendly club. Open Thursday through Sunday after 1 lpm. Rua Raul Pompeia 94, Copacabana. Tel: 021/2521-0367. Cover R$12-R$20 (US$4­ US$6.60). Bus: 415.

Help When this disco opened at the height of the early '80s craze, its dazzling lightshow and monster dance floor drew the young and beautiful by the beachload. It was the place to be seen. Two decades later, the unrefurbished Help attracts only lonely gringo travelers and Brazilian working girls; no self-respecting Carioca woman would be seen in the place, which means that beautiful dark-eyed lovely with whom you're getting on so well is most definitely expecting payment. Many of these young professionals negotiate their rates at the start of the evening, just to keep everything upfront. Av. Atlantica 3432, Copacabana. (6 021/2522-1296. Cover R58-R$20 (US$2.60-US$6.60). Bus: 474.

Meli-Melo Another very popular dance club, Meli-Melo is a spacious club with two dance floors, excellent DJs, a cybercafe, and a sushi bar. There is no cover I barge, but there is a stiff drink minimum that ranges from R$20 (US$6.60) on weekdays to R$50 (US$17) on Saturdays. Lineups are as competitive and door­men as snooty as anything south of Manhattan . That's the price you pay for rub­ bing elbows (or other bodily bits) with Rio 's beautiful people. Sightings of models, starlets, socialites, soccer players, and other assorted celebs are a dime a dozen. Av. Borges de Medeiros 1426, Lagoa. Tel: 021/2219-3132. Drink minimum Tues-Thurs R$20-R$25 (US$6.60-US$8.25) and on Fri-Sat R$25 (US$8.25) for women and R$40-R$50 (US$13-US$17) for men. Bus: 572.

Melt Owned by Marcelo do Rio , who also owns Devassa and Caroline Cafe, Melt is a great unpretentious club which has been making quite a name for itself with excellent live music by a variety of interesting artists. The small club consists of a restaurant and bar upstairs and a dance floor/bar downstairs. The canned music usually starts around 10pm and live music usually starts around 11pm or midnight . The bands range from hip-hop to bossa nova and samba with some funk thrown in. Rua Rita Ludolf 47, Leblon. Tel: 021/2249-9309. Cover R$10-R$18 (US$3.30­ US$6). Bus: 415

BARS & PUBS

There are various ways that bar and restaurant owners can extract money from guests: One of them is the couvert. The couvert in restaurants used to refer to the small appetizer plate that is served when you first arrive-olives, bread and butter, pate, and the like. Nowadays it's also the name given to a live music fee. If the bar has a musician playing, chances are an amount anywhere between R$2 and R$10 (US65c-US$3.30) per person or per table will be added to your bill. Always ask when going into a restaurant or bar with live music if there is a cover or “c ouvert para a musica" and how much it is, to avoid any surprises when your bill comes.

BOTEQUINS

Areo do Teles Tucked away in an alley just off the Praca XV, the Arco do Teles looks like a movie set of old Rio. Perfectly preserved colonial two-story walk-ups are set on narrow cobblestone streets, lined with restaurants and cafes. Though it's good place to go for a quick lunch, prime time is after work hours, especially on Thursday and Friday nights. Office workers flock here to grab a few cold cbopps (draft beer) and catch some music before heading home. Often they forget to go home. As the evening wears on, tables and chairs take over the entire alley, creat­ing a large impromptu patio-it's one of the best people-watching spots in town. With over 15 bars and botequins it doesn't matter which one you pick; walk around and see what's doing. If you get there after lOpm you'll be lucky to find a seat at all. Travessa do Comercio, Arco do Teles (from the Praga XV, facing towards the bay, you will see the arch that marks the entrance to the alley on your left). Bus: 110 or 415.

Bracarense Unanimously voted the best botequim in town-the New York Times even went so far as proclaiming it the best in Brazil-Bracarense may be suffering a bit from its own success. Particularly on Saturdays when the botequim is packed beyond capacity, the speed of service can slow to a crawl. Considering the overall quality, however, that may be a minor complaint. What assets are a botequim judged on? Beer quality is the number-one criterion. Bracarense's secret lies in an ultra-long hose-60m (196 ft.)-stored in ice, so as the chopp wends its way to your glass it chills down to perfection. Food quality is also key, partic­ularly the little munchy appetizers that go so well with beer. At Bracarense these are in expert hands of the Minas Gerais native Alaide, who works miracles in the small kitchen. Waiting talent, too, is important, and though the Bracarense's gar~ons may not do it with grace or style, they do get the chopp to your table. Rua Jose Linhares 85, Leblon (corner of Ataulfo de Paiva). Tel: 021/2294-3549. Bus: 464.

OTHER BARS AND PUBS

Academia da Caeha5a Afield trip to the Academia da Cacha~a puts the con­cept of advanced education in a whole new light. It is here that 40 members of the Cachaca Academy meet to dispute and discuss the finer points of the fiery white cane liquor that is Brazil 's national drink. In between arduous circumlocu­tions they also take time to sample, sample, sample, and sample. You should, too. For though all cac6aCa comes from cane juice, not all cachaFas are created equal. The selection at the Academia is overwhelming. Ask the bartenders for advice, and begin that lifelong intellectual quest for the perfect "white one" or "water that the birds don't drink" (as locals sometime name this hard liquor). One word of advice-don't down them on an empty stomach. The menu here offers a variety d Brazilian snacks to munch on while trying yet one more shot. Or two more hots. Or three. Or . . . Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26, loja G, Leblon. Tel: 021/2239-1542. .vww.academiadacachaca.com.br. Bus: 415.

Caroline Cafe Another success story by the hands of Marcelo do Rio , the OIden boy of nightlife (see also Devassa and Melt), the Caroline Cafe certainly ~or it right; even off the beaten track from Leblon or Ipanema's hot spots, this Imr packs them in on most nights. Located in a two-story house close to the botanical gardens, it has a small sidewalk patio. The background music still illows for some conversation and a small but well-done snack menu and great drinks keep a nonstop stream of hip and beautiful Cariocas coming. Rua 1.1. Seabra 10, Jardim Botanico ~C 021/2540-0705. www.carolinecafe.com . Bus: 572.

vevassa A newcomer on the Leblon nightlife scene, Devassa certainly irtracts a good-looking crowd that seems to enjoy the casual atmosphere. The bar has the feel of a bohemian bistro decorated with lovely mosaic tile floors, mirrors, and wooden tables and chairs. The large windows are opened wide on most nights, letting in the street action. Those who can't nab a coveted table can have a drink outside on the sidewalk. The drink specials are listed on the chalk­boards; most patrons go for a blond (loura), redhead (ruiva), or brunette (rreorena), home brews made by the bar's own brew master. Rua General San Martin 1241, Leblon. t 021/2540-6087. Bus: 415.

Garota de Ipanema (0_,eu ared The bossa nova tune "The Girl from Ipanema" ("Garota de Ipanema" in Portuguese) is indeed a thing of sublime beauty, com­posed in one afternoon by poet Vinicius de Moraes and singer Tom Jobim while the two sat drinking chopp and watching the Brazilian beach beauties go by in a little bar then called the Veloso. Though still there, the bar is now somewhat less than beautiful and anything but sublime. After the tune became a world hit the bar changed its name and plastered the song's lyrics and score on the wall in a blatant attempt to cash in. Jobim and Moraes themselves shunned the place in short order, driven out by the hordes and attendant crass commercialism. Nowa­days, the beer is cold and the food okay (both come at a premium), and the peo­ ple walking by are still tall, tan, young, and lovely, but the Garota itself is neither a musical nor cultural hot spot. Rua Vinicius de Moraes 49 A, Ipanema. (t 02112523­ 3787. Bus: 434.

Lord Jim Fun as Rio nightlife is, there are those who hanker now and again for a reprieve-this authentic British pub is where they come. Lord Jim's is the place to look for ex-pats crying in their Guinness, or else to pick up a game of darts or even watch a puzzled Carioca digging in to exotic British dishes such as shepherd's pie. Rua Paulo Redfern 63, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2259-3047. Bus: 432,

Mercado Cobal de Humaita Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? Or is it a great seething mass of people at plastic patio tables quaffing chopp, munching food, and listening to tunes from one or more live bands? That last is probably the best description of the nighttime scene at the Mercado Cobal. By day a mild­ mannered fruit and vegetable market, at night the Mercado transforms itself into a huge outdoor bar scene. Seven or eight different restaurants and chopperias (a downscale botequim; chopperias sell draft beer and very basic snacks) all meld into one large bustling patio, with busy waiters racing up and down the aisles trying to keep their tables straight. Galeto Mania serves up a tasty grilled chicken, Piz­ zapark offers a full range of pizzas, and Manekineko whips up tray after tray of fresh sushi, while Espirito Chopp serves the best cold draft beer. The beauty of this place is that you don't have to commit to one specific restaurant. Once you've found a table, just order food from any of them. With superhero skill, the wait­ ers somehow manage to keep track of it all. Cobal de Humaita, Rua Voluntarios da Patria 446, Botafogo. Galeto Mania Tel: 021/2527-0616. Manekineko,Tel: 021/2537-1510. Occasionally the market's bars will add a couvert (cover) charge to your bill for live music, varying from R$4­ R$10 (US$1.30-US$3.30). Bus: 178. Metro: Botafogo.

Skylab Bar In a city of such stunning beauty; it's worth heading up to the high ground. Located by the poolside on the 30th floor of the Rio Othon, the Skylab Bar is the place to sip a caipirinha or batida cocktail while imbibing the intox icating views of Copacabana stretched out beneath your feet. The Skylab Bar is a lso a restaurant, but with so many more interesting food options to explore in the streets below, it's better to treat your time there as a cocktail: an exquisite and bea utiful concoction that only whets your appetite for the evening ahead. Hotel Rio o thon, Av. Atlantica 3264, Copacabana. Tel: 021/2525-1500. No cover. Metro: Arcoverde.

GAY & LESBIAN NIGHTLIFE

Rio 's gay community is fairly small, certainly smaller than one would expect from a city of 10 million people. For all Rio 's reputation for sexual hedonism, the macho culture still predominates. As lasciviously as heterosexual couples m ay behave in public, open displays of affection-even hand-holding-between same -sex couples are still not accepted in Brazil . The big exception, of course, is Carnaval, when many straight and gay men dress as women (Carmen Miranda i, always a popular costume), and parades with drag queens are cheered by everyone. But this spirit of openness lasts only until the last samba drums fade away at the dawn of Ash Wednesday.

Currently, the most popular nightspot is in Ipanema around the Galeria Cafe on the Rua Teixeira de Melo. During the day the stretch of sand close to Posto 8 (opposite the Rua Farme de Amoedo) is also popular. Copacabana has a number of gay clubs and bars as well as a popular meeting place on the beach in front of I he Copacabana Palace Hotel at Rainbow's. In Rio 's old downtown there are a few popular places around the Avenida Mem de Sa and Rua do Lavradio. A good rcsource to pick up is the latest edition of the Gay Guide Brazil, a small booklet wailable at some of the clubs and bookstores in Ipanema . The Brazilian term for gay friendly is GLS, which stands for gay, lesbian, and sympathizers. Often you will see this abbreviation used in listings or restaurant and bar reviews.

The Blue Angel at Rua Julio de Castilhos 15, Copacabana Tel: 021/2513­ 2501; Bus: 415) is a very upscale, very classy gay and lesbian bar that plays host to beautiful people, among them artists and models, starlets and their male ,ounterparts (starstuds?). The bar has an impressive cocktail list, and the kitchen serves appetizers and sandwiches until the wee hours. There's also a small gallery of avant-garde art. There is no cover.

Set in a lovely small gallery stunningly decorated with a changing display of work by local artists, the Galeria Caf6 at Rua Teixeira de Melo 31E, Ipanema Tel: 021/2523-8250; Bus: 415) packs a gorgeous collection of men, shoulder to shoulder, bicep to bicep, into its combo art space, dance club, and bar. Those that can't fit-and there are many-just hang out in front. The Galeria really gets hopping, inside and out, after lam. The cover charge is R$10 to R$25 (US$3.30-US$8.25).

One of the most popular nightclubs is newcomer Dama de Ferro (the Iron Lady), Rua Vinicius de Moraes 288, Ipanema (Tel: 021/ 2247-2330). Decorated by artist Adriana Lima, who also did the amazing decor at Galeria Cafe, Dama de Ferro is the it-spot at the moment, popular with gay and straight (although definitely gay); high tolerance for electronic music is a must. Cover is R$10 to R$20 (US$3.30-US$G.60).

Le Boy, Rua Raul Pompeia 102, Copacabana (C6 021/2513-4993; www.leboy. com.br ; Bus: 415), is the largest gay club in Rio . It's glamorous, funky, and extremely spacious with a soaring four-story ceiling hovering somewhere above the dance floor. A range of special events attracts national and international celebrities and assorted (beautiful) hangers-on. Go after l1pm, when things really start to hop. The club is open Tuesday through Saturday; cover ranges from R$5 to R$15 (US$1.65-US$5). All for equal opportunity, Le Boy's owner recently inaugurated La Girl next door, Rua Raul Pompeia 102 (( Tel: 021/2247-8342), Rio's first truly upscale nightclub for gay women. La Girl is open from Thursday through Sunday. Cover ranges from R$5 to R$10 (US$ L65-US$3.30).

The lesbian-friendly Tamino, Rua Arnaldo Quintela 26, Botafogo (Tel: 021/ 2295-1849; Metro: Botafogo), was all the rage in the '80s when it was one of the first restaurants to come out of the closet. Nowadays, Tamino makes a liv­ ing as a kilo restaurant by day and opens as a gay bar only at night. Open from Thursday through Sunday, the bar offers live music after lOpm. Friday evenings are exclusively for gay women; other nights are open to men as well. Cover ranges from R$5 to R$12 (US$1.65-US$3.95).

The Copa, Rua Aires Saldanha 13 A, Copacabana ((() 021/2256-7412; www. thecopa.com.br ; Bus: 128), is a bar, restaurant, club, and tea salon all in one. Not your typical gay bar, the Copa's ultra-kitsch '50s and '60s decor has quickly estab­ lished a great following amongst Rio 's GLS crowd since it opened in October 2000. The kitchen serves afternoon tea, sandwiches, and other dishes, though peo­ ple really come for the scene. On most nights, after the clock strikes 12 the DJs start spinning tunes. Cover on the weekend is R$10 (US$3.30).