- Suggested Itineraries
- The Top Attractions
- Museums & Cultural Centers
- Architectural Highlights
- Beaches, Parks & Plazas
- Rio After Dark
- Everything You Need to know About Carnaval
- Shopping in Rio

THE SHOPPING SCENE

If Cariocas had to list their primary joys in life, shopping certainly wouldn't come out on the very top-there are, after all, beaches, music, and sex to consider­ but it'd certainly be in the top five. Cariocas shop anywhere and everywhere: Even on the beach vendors will peddle an enormous range of products. Elsewhere clothing, shoes, arts and crafts, musical instruments, and other souvenirs can all he had at good prices.

The old downtown neighborhood of Centro offers great deals for clothes and ,hoes. Fun to explore are the pedestrian streets around Rua da Alfandega, Rua Uruguaiana, and Rua Buenos Aires, jampacked with hundreds of merchants in small shops side by side. Back in the '70s the area was slated to be demolished to make room for a viaduct, but over 1,200 shopkeepers formed a merchant's associ­ ation and banded together to put a halt to the development. The best days for hopping are Monday through Friday when the downtown core is full of office workers. Throughout downtown you will also find many street vendors hawking a variety of wares, everything from portable radios to pirated CDs and see-through bra-straps. The area around Largo da Carioca has a number of market stalls and street vendors. More upscale clothing can be found around the Rua Gon~alves Dias, with many stores selling Brazilian brand names and local designers.

Botafogo has two interesting shopping centers, the Botafogo Praia Shop­ ping and the older Rio Sul. Rio Sul was one of the first malls of Rio and is still .1 very popular shopping destination. Many Brazilian stores can be found in this mall, and it makes a convenient place to browse and get a sense for brands and prices.

Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon don't have any large malls, just boutique malls known as galerias in Brazil . The prominent shopping areas are the main streets of the neighborhood. In Copacabana, Nossa Senhora de Copacabana is the main shopping street, with many souvenir shops, music, clothing, and sport­ ing good stores. The beachfront area also houses a street market on Saturdays and Sundays, selling souvenirs and arts and crafts from various regions of Brazil . For upscale and exclusive shopping in Ipanema, try Rua Visconde de Piraja, especially between the Rua Anibal de Medon~a and Rua Vinicius de Moraes. Barra da Tijuca is the newest shopping experience in Rio . This newly developed neighborhood has a number of malls, including the Barra Shopping-the largest mall in Latin America -but offers very little in the way of small shops or street life and is hard to get to on the bus.

Hours for small stores and neighborhood shops are typically Monday through Friday from l0am to 7pm , and 9am to lpm on Saturday. Malls are usually open from l0am to lOpm Monday through Saturday and limited hours on Sundays ( 2-8pm ). In tourist areas shops will often be open on weekends.

While street vendors and markets only take cash, most shops accept one or more types of credit cards. Often you can negotiate a discount for paying cash instead of with a credit card. In many stores you will also see two prices listed on items: a vista (always the lower price) refers to cash payments, cheque ou cartdo is the price for payments made with a check or credit card. Please note that there is a difference between Credicard (a brand of credit card) and cartko or cartdo de credito (the generic word for any kind of credit card).

SHOPPING FROM A TO Z

ANTIQUES

Shopping Cassino Atlantico Attached to the Sofitel Hotel at the southern edge of Copacabana (just across from the Forte de Copacabana) is the Shopping Cassino Atlantico, a 180-store mall that specializes in antiques and art galleries. Browsers will like the antiques fair that takes place every Saturday from l lam to 7pm throughout the mall. Av. Atlantica 4240, Copacabana. Tel: 021/2523-8709. Bus: 474.

ARTS & CRAFTS

Brumado This store in Laranjeiras has an excellent collection of Brazilian arts and crafts from across the country, including some indigenous arts and toys. Also on display are a variety of colonial furniture and some antiques. Rua das Laranjeiras 486, loja 924, Laranjeiras. Tel: 021/2558-2275. Bus: 584.

0 Sol One of the better arts-and-crafts stores, 0 Sol is run by a nonprofit society dedicated to supporting and promoting the work of regional artists. The collection varies from beautiful but not very portable furniture pieces to very portable miniature terra-cotta sculptures, chess sets, and textiles, including car­ pets and wall hangings. Rua Corcovado 213, Jardim Botanico. Tel: 021/2294-5099. Bus: 572.

Pe de Boi Also in Laranjeiras, on your way to the Corcovado , Pe de Boi's col­ lection is enormous. Going beyond just Brazilian arts and crafts, it also includes works from popular Peruvian, Ecuadorian, and Guatemalan artists. It's also a great spot to browse for arts and crafts from other Brazilian regions such the Amazon, Pernambuco, and Minas Gerais. Rua Ipiranga 55, Laranjeiras.Tel: 021/2285-4395. Bus: 584.

BEACHWEAR

Blue Man My favorite swimwear store, Blue Man is known for its original designs and prints. Bathing suits and bikinis can be found in various styles, often allowing you to mix and match tops and bottoms for your preferred look. Vis­ conde de Piraja 351, loja 108, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2247-4905. Bus: 474. Also with outlets in the Rio Sul and Fashion Mall shopping centers.

Bum Bum Probably the best-known store to shop for the infamous Rio bikini. Collections vary constantly, but one thing never changes-the smaller the bet­ ter. All the styles and colors are on display and will give you a quick feel for the current beach fashions. Rua Vinicius de Morais 130, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2521-1229. Bus: 415.

Sal & Seda Everything you need for the beach and beyond. Beautifully designed bikinis (not just the itsy-bitsy, teeny-weeny kind, though they have those, too) and bathing suits, some with lovely embroidery. Also a selection of tops and tunics made out of high-qualiry white cotton with delicate embroidery, cool enough to wear to the beach, yet beautiful enough to wear for an evening out. Rua Visconde de Piraja 540, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2294-0791. Bus: 415.

BOOKS

Dantes Editora e Livraria For an excellent collection of inexpensive used paperback books in English (just what the doctor ordered for reading on the beach), try this bookstore in Leblon. For the more intellectually motivated, there are also more serious tomes through which to browse. Rua Dias Ferreira 45b, Leblon. Tel: 021/2511-3480. Bus: 415.

Letras e Expressoes For an excellent selection of foreign magazines and newspapers, check out this bookstore in Ipanema. In the travel section you will also find a number of excellent books on Rio , including some beautiful coffee table photo books. Internet terminals available. Rua Visconde de Piraja 276, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2521-6110. Bus: 415. Also at Av. Ataulfo de Paiva 1292 C, Leblon. ,Tel: 021/2511-5085.

Livraria da Travessa Nothing's better than losing yourself in a good book­ store every now and then. With its lovely wooden floor-to-ceiling shelves and black-and-white checkered floor tiles, this beautiful store positively invites browsing sessions of several hours or more. They have a good collection of Eng­ lish books, including all the usual paperback books plus children's books and guidebooks. On the mezzanine is a tiny coffee shop that serves up coffees, sweets, sandwiches, and wines. Av. Rio Branco 44, Centra Tel: 021/2242-9294. Bus: 128. Also at Rua Visconde de Piraja 462 A, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2521-7734. Bus: 474 and 128.

CARNAVAL COSTUMES

Casa Turuna For those creative types who would like to make their own Car­ naval costume instead of buying it from a samba school, Casa Turuna is your spot. Established in 1920, this little store in Rio 's downtown sells everything you can imagine and more. Let your imagination run free. Odds are they've seen it all over the years. Rua Senhor dos Passos 122, Centro. Tel: 021/2224-0908. Metro: Central.

DEPARTMENT STORES

Lojas Americanas For inexpensive clothing, candies, appliances, and toi­ letries, check out the Lojas Americanas. Some branches also have a small grocery department. The music department often has great deals on CDs. Visconde de Piraja 526-532, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2274-0590. Bus: 474.

FASHION

For Men

Sandpiper Check out Sandpiper for trendy casual wear that is a bit more upscale than Taco (see below) but still fun and hip. If you are in the market for shirts or informal jackets, this is a great spot. Like most of the men's clothing stores in Brazil , they usually add a few more splashes of color than you may be used to. Rua Santa Clara 75, Copacabana. Tel: 021/2236-7652. Metro: Arcoverde.

Taco Very inexpensive and with good-qualiry casual wear, Taco would be Brazil 's answer to the Gap, except jeans cost R$30 (US$10). Good selection of casual dress shirts and T-shirts in lots of different colors. Most products are 100% Brazilian cotton and will last forever. Rua Gon4alves Dias 56, Centro. Tel: 021/2242-3315. Another branch atAv. Rio Branco 151, Centro. Tel: 021/2221-2323. Metrd: Carioca.

Toulon Excellent spot to pickup some smart casual wear. Good quality jeans, khakis, colorful long-sleeve cotton dress shirts, and T-shirts at reasonable prices.

Toulon also sells accessories such as belts, underwear, and socks. Rua Visconde de Piraja 135, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2247-8716. www.toulon.com.br . Bus: 474. Another branch at Av. N.S. de Copacabana 978, lojas B/C, Copacabana. Tel: 021/2247-1051. Bus: 474.

For Women

Dimpus The words "young" and "trendy" come to mind when describing the Dimpus collection. Pieces are colorful and hip but still quite wearable for work or evening wear. A popular store with Rio 's 18- to 35-year-olds. Rua Maria Quiteria 85, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2523-1544. www.dimpus.com.br . Bus: 415.

Lele da Cuca One of the more elegant and upscale shops in Ipanema's tony shopping district, Lel6 da Cuca caters to many of Rio's society women. Its collec­ tions include elegant evening and glamour wear, with a variety of European designer labels such as Chanel. The store also has a large collection of accessories such as belts, purses, and shoes. Rua Visconde de Piraja 430 B, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2287-5295. Bus: 474.

Rabo de Saia Elegant women's clothing for those who like simple and clean styles with just a dash of color. Santa Clara 75, Copacabana. Tel: 021/2255-7332. Bus: 415.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

I ly's Gems and Souvenirs One of the largest souvenir stores, Ely's consists ,,f two sections. On the left you will find all the typical souvenirs: wood carv­ I ngs, Bahian dolls, T-shirts, and mugs as well as a large array of gifts made with precious stones. The good stuff, however, is on the right-hand side, in the jew­ rlry section of the store. Beautiful creations in silver and gold as well as loose `(ones are sold, and Ely herself will take time to show you around and get a feel for what you like. Av. N. S. de Copacabana 249, loja D. Tel: 021/2541-2547. Metro: Arcoverde.

Lido Souvenirs just a block from the Copacabana Palace Hotel you will find .i wide range of souvenirs, from the ultra-tacky to the exquisitely tasteful. The `tore's specialty is semiprecious and precious stones, sold loose as well as in a variety of trinkets such as teaspoons with stone handles, stone birds, and jewelry. Rua Adolfo Dantas 26 B, Copacabana. Tel: 021/2541-8098. Bus: 415. Metro: Arcoverde.

JEWELRY

Amsterdam Sauer The best-known name in Brazil for gems, jewelry, and souvenirs made with semiprecious and precious stones. The Ipanema location houses both the store and museum and is worth a visit even if you are not in the market to buy. The museum shows off many of Mr. Sauer's original finds when he first came to Brazil in 1940 and started working as a miner, gemologist, geol­ ogist, and finally as a jeweler. The store offers a wide range of jewelry and loose gemstones such as emeralds, aquamarines, imperial topaz (mined only in Brazil ), tourmalines, citrines, and Brazilian opals. The staff is very friendly and helpful without pressuring customers into buying anything. Items are wrapped for travel and can be delivered to your hotel, as you shouldn't really wander out on foot or bus with your newly purchased jewels. Rua Visconde de Piraja 484, Ipanema. Tel: 0800/ 266-092 or 021/2512-9878. www.amsterdamsauer.com . Bus: 474.

H.Stern It is hard to miss the H.Stern advertisements in hotels around Rio (and the rest of Brazil ), and it is only a matter of time before you receive an invi­tation to visit the store, transportation complimentary. If you don't receive an offer, just phone the store and they'll be pleased to come pick you up. (I once read a story about a man who tried to save on cab fare by calling the H. Stern store nearest his destination whenever he wanted to go out. He paid next to nothing for taxis, but wound up buying his girlfriend a very expensive ring.) The store in Ipanema is the world headquarters for this famous jewelry store, with over 180 offices in the U.S. , Europe , Israel , and all across Latin America . Special­izing in precious and semiprecious stones, the company also owns mines and polishing shops, guaranteeing the quality of their products from start to finish. Rua Garcia D'Avila 113, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2259-7442. Bus: 474.

Kanter Arte & Joias If you are looking for a one-of-a-kind piece, try Kanter with its unique collection of jewelry in gold and silver created by Brazilian artists. Rio native Angelica Pavane's designs are exclusive to this store and reflect the colorful taste of Carioca women. Pieces are made with the many Brazilian precious stones such as aquamarines, amethysts, and topaz, combining various stones and shades into one design. The collection changes seasonally. Rua Visconde de Piraja 430 A, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2287-8299. Bus: 474. Also Rua Barata Ribeiro 458B, Copaca­ bana. ,Tel: 021/2548-0715. Bus: 474. Metro: Arcoverde.

LEATHER GOODS

Mala Amadd Run out of luggage space for all your souvenirs? Mala Amada has an excellent selection of handbags, purses, briefcases, and wallets. All are made with high-quality Brazilian leather and produced locally in the store's own factory. Rua Visconde de Piraja 550, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2239-8648. www.malaamada.com.br . Bus: 474. Also Rua da Carioca 13, Centro. Tel: 021/2262-0676. Metro: Carioca.

MALLS & SHOPPING CENTERS

Botafogo Praia Shopping The only drawback to this small mall on Botafogo's main beach avenue is that it's spread out over seven floors, so you spend a lot of time on the escalators. The mall has an excellent selection of clothing stores such as Dimpus, Folic, Corpo and Alma, Exchange, Old Factory, and Madame MS. For your photo needs, check out the Kodak Rio photo shop on the ground floor. The food court on the seventh floor has a few fast-food options as well as three excellent restaurants (Kotobuki [see p. 86], Emporium Pax, and Enseada), with gorgeous views of Botafogo beach and the Pao de A~ucar. Praia de Botafogo 400, Botafogo. Tel: 021/2559-9559. Bus: 512 (to Alfredo Gomes). Metrd: Botafogo. Please note that all buses marked via aterro take the express route and have no stops along Botafogo beach.

Rio Sul One of the most popular malls in the city, Rio Sul is very accessible, located in Botafogo just before the tunnel that goes to Copacabana. With over 450 stores, a movie theater, and an excellent food court, Rio Sul is always busy and a great place to get a feel for Brazilian fashion and prices. Rua Lauro Muller 116, Botafogo. Tel: 021/2545-7200. Bus: 119 or 474.

Sao Conrado Fashion Mall Although it has lost a bit of its original glitter and appeal, the Sao Conrado Fashion Mall is still a favorite haunt for Rio 's well­heeled and fashion-conscious shopper. Over 150 stores, carrying national and international designers, display their wares. Maybe it's because of its upscale clientele, but the mall's food court is the best in town. Estrada da Gavea 899, Sao Con­ rado. Tel: 021/2322-2733. Bus: 178.

MARKETS

Babilonia Feira Hype It maybe spelled "hype," but it's pronounced "hippie," as in long hair, groovy, cool, man. Located in the Jockey Club, the Babilonia Hippy Fair is an arts-and-crafts market and more. You can listen to music, get a shiatsu massage, design a henna tattoo, buy a nose ring, or get yourself pierced, and if things get really groovy, you can even turn on, tune in, and drop out. Tip: The market makes a great stop after touring the nearby Botanical Gardens. Open every other Saturday and Sunday from 2 to lOpm; check for correct week in the newspaper or phone ahead. Hipodromo do Joquei Clube Brasileiro, Rua Jardim Botanico s/n. Tel: 021/2236-7195. Bus: 170, 571, or 572.

Frira Hippie Ipanema In the '60s this square was the hippie hangout in Rio, and though the market is not quite the outstanding arts-and-crafts fair it used to be, it's still a fun place to browse on a Sunday morning if you happen to be in Ipanema. (If your time is very limited try catching the Babilonia Feira Hype instead; see above.) Open Sunday 9am to 5pm. Pra4a General Osorio (intersection of Teixeira de Melo and Rua Visconde de Piraja). Bus 474. No phone.

Feirarte In front of the Pa~o Imperial on one of Rio 's most historic squares, this crafts market features a range of artists showcasing their handiwork. There's leatherwork, ceramics, glass, and silver, not to mention food and drink stands, and less talented vendors peddling more touristy souvenirs. Open Thursday and I nday 8am to 6pm. Pra4a XV, Centro. No phone. Bus: 119 or 415.

MUSIC

Toca de Vinicius Finds In the heart of Ipanema stands this small temple dedicated to the god of bossa nova, the poet and composer Vinicius de Moraes. For ture worshippers of Vinicius and bossa nova, the second floor of the shop houses i miniscule shrine with original manuscripts of lyrics, photos, and even a piece of hair of the great poet himself Anything related to bossa nova can be found in this tiny store: an impressive collection of CDs and vinyl, songbooks, and (mostly Portuguese) books and magazines on the smooth and mellow sounds of Brazil. Kua Vinicius de Moraes 129, Ipanema. Bus: 474.

Top Sound Even though most music shops have given up on vinyl, Top Sound ,fill carries a good collection of LPs and provides vinyl lovers with the opportu­nity to expand their collection with some Brazilian tunes. The store also takes pride in stocking hard-to-find CDs and lets you listen before purchasing. Av. N.S. de Copacabana 1103, loja Tel: 021/2267-9607. Bus: 415.

MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS

The berimbau, that wooden string instrument from Bahia, is likely one of Brazil's most popular souvenirs, but for music lovers there are many more interesting instruments to choose from (many of which are far more portable than the awk­wardly shaped berimbau). The Rua da Carioca has turned into Music Store Cen­tral with at least five shops by most recent count grouped together on its short length. Look for hand-held rattles so small they fit in the palm of your hand, or else pick up a tambourine or small set of drums. The agogo is an interesting­looking double bell used to keep a beat. Guitar players will love the cavaquinho, a sort of Brazilian version of the ukulele. Give one a pluck, and if you've listened to any pagode or samba recordings, you'll immediately recognize its distinctive twang. For these and more instruments visit Musical Carioca, Rua da Carioca 89 (Tel: 021/2524-6029); Casa Oliveira Musicais, Rua da Carioca 70 (Tel: 021/ 2252-5636); or Guitarra Prata, Rua da Carioca 37 (Tel: 021/2262-9659). Metro: Largo da Carioca.

PERFUME

0 Boticario A Brazilian success story, 0 Boticario is well known for its fra­grances made with flowers and herbs. In recent years the store has branched out (a la The Body Shop) to include skin-care products and makeup, but the most popular items remain the lightly scented perfumes and soaps for men, women, and children. Various locations including Av. Rio Branco 120, loja 48, Centro. ,Tel: 021/2509-6979. Metro: Uruguaina.

SHOES

Arezzo If Carioca women had to choose a favorite shoe store, it would with­ out a doubt be Arezzo . This company always seems to stay just a step ahead of the trends without being too avant-garde, and the prices are reasonable. Also sells a great selection of high-qualiry leather purses. Various locations, including Rio Sul and Rua Visconde de Piraja 295, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2521-4737. Bus: 415.

Mr. Cat For the latest and most elegant styles in shoe fashions, have a look at Mr. Cat's collection. The store goes for classic designs, business as well as evening wear for both men and women. All shoes are made of the highest quality made­ in-Brazil leather. Prices are very reasonable, ranging from R$50 to R$150 (US$17-US$50) for a pair of top-quality leather men's dress shoes. Rua Visconde de Piraja 414, loja D, Ipanema. t 021/2523-4645. Bus: 474. Another branch at Rua Gon4alves Dias 18, lojas D, E., Centro. Tel: 021/2509-1163. Metrd: Carioca.

SPORTING GOODS

Galeria River Cool central; not just one shop but a minimall with at least a dozen sports and outdoor stores that sell skateboards, surf gear, inline skates, and climbing equipment as well as accessories such as clothing, sunglasses, and hik­ ing boots. Great place to pick up tips on where to go, lessons, and local hang­ outs. Galeria River , Rua Francisco Otaviano, Ipanema. No phone. Bus: 128.

Wollner Outdoor A good address for high-quality outdoor gear: backpacks, daypacks, hiking boots, rain gear, and climbing gear. Prices are comparable to those in the United States and Canada . Wollner also offers outdoor courses and trips; see notice board in store or www.wollner.com.br for upcoming events. Rua Visconde de Piraja 511, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2274-6121. Bus: 415.

SURF SHOPS

Atol das Rocas Everything you need to catch those waves . . . surfboards, bodyboards, and wetsuits. Not a surfer? This Rio shop also has a great collection of shorts, Bermudas, T-shirts (for both men and women), and accessories such as wallets, sunglasses, and backpacks, perfect for that native beach-bum look, even if you can't swim. Rua Ouvidor 161, Centro. Tel: 021/2232-4965. Metro: Uruguaiana.

Spirit One of the few surf stores that also stocks rentals, Spirit is conveniently close to the best surf spot in Ipanema, Arpoador beach. Open Monday through Saturday only, you will need to book ahead if you want to surf over the week­ end. Rentals range from R$20 to R$30 (US$6.60-US$9.90) for a short board, fun board, or long board. This shop is located in a minimall with a dozen other surf and outdoor shops that can outfit you with everything else you may need. Most, however, do not do rentals. Galeria River , Rua Francisco Otaviano 67, loja 4, Ipanema. Tel: 021/2267-9943. Bus: 128.